SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT FROM ERS ALTIMETER FOR SHALLOW WATER WAVE STUDIES.
FRANCISCO J OCAMPO-TORRES
Departamento de Oceanografia Fisica, CICESE
Ensenada B. C., MEXICO
fax: +52 (61) 744848 or 745154
Progress is reported on research activities related to modelling waves
and use of ERS data, Pilot Project PP2-JP2 (MXOT-1361).
Significant wave height (Hs) as infered from ERS-1 altimeter signal
is used to validate a wave model (WAM) on an oceanic scale grid
which provides directional wave spectrum as border conditions for
a shallow water wave model (SWAN).
Wave evolution near the coast is studied at a location in the northwest
of Mexico (on the Pacific coast),
by hindcasting for August and September 1992.
In coastal waters, ERS altimeter provide some detailed
spatial variation of the wave field.
This compares reasonably well with the numerical simulations
in shallow waters.
Implications related to the land-ocean transition of altimeter signal
and to sampling over an area of about 150 km is discussed.
The use of ERS data to validate deep water wave models
and to study spatial characteristics of wave field evolution
in coastal waters is pointed out.
With this attempt, the feasibility of operationaly providing
details of ocean waves in shallow waters is explored,
in particular for a region in the Pacific coast of Mexico.
Keywords: ESA European
Space Agency - Agence spatiale europeenne,
observation de la terre, earth observation,
satellite remote sensing,
teledetection, geophysique, altimetrie, radar,
chimique atmospherique, geophysics, altimetry, radar,