Wind and wave forecasts for offshore operations and ship routing
- The global demand for marine information
- Limitations to traditional data sources
- The contribution of satellite data
- Improving meteorological forecasts
- Producing wave forecasts
- Ensuring the quality of the wave data
- The UK Meteorological Office
- NEPTUNE from Meteo-France
- ARGOSS - forecasts for offshore operations
- Current and future developments in marine forecasting
- Costs versus benefits for the marine industries
- Contacts
The global demand for marine information
[Figure
1. Support vessel activities around an offshore oil rig. These require
wave heights under 5m for the duration of the operation. Courtesy: Shell
UK Exploration & Production]
With global reserves of oil and gas forever diminishing, and demand
increasing, exploration managers are looking to frontier areas offshore
to provide new viable sources of hydrocarbons - areas which have unpredictable
weather due to the sparsity and unreliability of metocean data. Firstly,
in order to pinpoint sites for exploratory drilling, regional seismic surveys
are undertaken for which a day of unanticipated down-time due to bad marine
conditions represents an avoidable several thousand ECU loss. If a rig
is eventually deployed to exploit this newly discovered reserve, both one-off
and routine operations must be undertaken which can not only be disrupted
by extreme events but also conditions typical of the area, such as swell
waves with particular periods which can initiate resonant motion.
Many of these operations such as vessel operations, subsea operations
(diving and ROVs), crane lifts, tanker loading and drilling, involve coupling
of structures or unevenly distributed weighting. These constructions are
particularly at risk from unacceptable motions initiated by waves which
can lead to impacts and capsize events. For example, pipeline laying operations
involving crane lifts, carried out from unmoored vessels using dynamic
positioning, are fully at the mercy of the elements, requiring wave heights
less than 3 metres for a window of at least 6 hours.
There
is significant growth in both size and number of ships navigating key routes
around the Pacific rim and the Persian Gulf, and across the North Atlantic.
Refit costs in dry dock for wave-induced slamming fatigue can be considerable,
and currently on average three ships with a displacement of over 500 tons
are sunk every week. Additionally, as coastal fish stocks become further
depleted due to pollution and over-fishing, the fishing industry is having
to explore more inaccessible places in which to deploy their nets.
[Figure 2. A shipping trawler in high seas]
Limitations to traditional data sources
Forecasts
of marine wind conditions can be provided by national meteorological agencies,
although atmospheric models driven by the few in situ wind measurements
available (gathered by ships using the major shipping routes, or in a few
cases by dedicated buoy networks) may inaccurately represent atmospheric
cyclonic features characteristic of storms not directly measured. Without
accurate wind information, it is then impossible to accurately generate
swell waves resulting from these storms in wave forecasts.
[Figure 3. In situ measurements of wind from ships over a 3 day period
in 1990]
Wave models exist with which to predict marine conditions, but information
on wave height, period and direction is needed to correct the output in
order to accurately represent wave fields. In areas with a high level of
marine activity such as the North West Shelf in Europe, organisations (including
oil companies) in countries such as Norway, Denmark, The Netherlands and
the UK are deploying buoy networks to measure both winds and wave heights
with the spatial and temporal sampling necessary to drive models of the
Shelf. These dedicated buoy networks have running costs of over a million
pounds per annum for each 10 buoy network. In many cases incompatibility
problems prevent neighbouring countries from sharing the data.
Even with the advent of such dedicated buoy networks, large parts of
the oceans remain unobserved, including frontier areas of development where
levels of marine activity are increasing, such as South East Asia. Each
type of operation will have different requirements. In certain cases a
‘point-to-point’ forecast along a particular ship route may be needed or
information on a specific location, for a specific time period or with
a particular frequency of update.
The contribution of satellite data
The
active microwave sensors onboard ERS (altimeter, scatterometer, Synthetic
Aperture Radar (SAR)) offer clear advantages for the study of marine winds
and sea state. Firstly, they allow homogeneous, global and continuous coverage,
at an improved resolution over conventional observations from ships and
buoys. Due to frequent revisits, global wind fields from the scatterometer
are likely to detect 3-4 of approximately 10 major cyclonic depressions
which are over the Earth’s surface at any one time, hence improving atmospheric
forecasts and resultant wave fields. Wave height observations, and measures
of the period of swells generated by a far-off storm (sometimes thousands
of kilometres away), can be used to improve wave forecasts - as the future
sea state is dependent on accurate knowledge of the current situation.
[Figure 4. ERS Scatterometer wind measurements over one day - 29th
January 1991]
Secondly,
these data are of known quality and reliability, and are thoroughly validated
before use. All these factors allow more accurate metocean and sea state
forecasts to be produced, with a true representation of wind and wave fields.
Figure 4 shows the improvement in the volume of wind measurements from
in situ and satellite sources.
[Figure 5. Tropical Cyclone Oliver - forcing the atmospheric model
using the scatterometer. Courtesy: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, USA]
Improving meteorological forecasts
In various studies by the UK Meteorological Office (UKMO) and the European
Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), the impact of the assimilation
of scatterometer data was observed to be an improvement on the meteorological
forecasts derived without scatterometer data of between 6-10% for surface
pressure fields and 2-4% in the temperature and wind fields in the four
day forecast from the global models. Figure 5 demonstrates the obvious
improvements in description of cyclonic features afforded by the assimilation
of scatterometer data into the operational weather prediction model used
by the ECMWF. These figures show tropical cyclone Oliver during the Austral
summer of 1992, located in the southern tropical Pacific where in situ
observations are sparse.
Producing wave forecasts
The wave model
Every wave forecast is produced using an initial state obtained by assimilating
(blending) wind and wave data into a numerical model. Usually data are
gathered into six hour windows centred around the assimilation times. At
each time increment sea spectra are calculated, using an action balance
equation where the evolution of the energy spectrum of the waves is forced
by three contributory effects: energy input from wind forcing (produced
by an atmospheric model), nonlinear wave-wave interaction which transfers
energy between long and shorter wavelength waves, and energy dissipation
from breaking waves. The wind field is used to force the wave model output
which is then corrected locally with measurements of wave height, period
and direction at each time step by drawing the model sea state towards
the observed values using an optimal interpolation scheme.
Driving the model with ERS data
The availability of global high quality data on wind and wave fields
in near real time through ERS requires the development of a suitable scheme
for the rapid efficient assimilation of a high volume of data, within the
lifecycle of the operational forecast.
In contrast to conventional observing systems which provide wind and
wave data at fixed times and locations, satellite data are generated continuously
at variable locations, requiring a four dimensional (both space and time
dependent) assimilation method, achieved by assigning weights to the various
data.
Assimilation efficiency also affects the resolution at which the gridded
output from the model can be provided, although this is also dependent
on the complexity of the model, the size of the geographical area covered
and the available computing power.
Forcing the wave model with scatterometer winds

[Figure 6. The impact of scatterometer data on the output from the
VAG wave model. Courtesy Meteo-France]
Wave outputs also benefit significantly from quality wind forcing. Usually,
scatterometer data are used to correct wind fields input into the the atmospheric
models of meteorological offices. However, Meteo-France demonstrated the
direct impact on wave forecast accuracy of scatterometer wind fields. The
output from the model North Atlantic wave model VAG both when using scatterometer
wind fields (SCAT) and wind vectors derived from the Meteo-France operational
weather model ARPEGE (NODATA) was compared to wind vectors from drifting
buoys and to altimeter wave heights, see figure 6. The error curves obtained
denote a clear improvement in the presence of the scatterometer as the
impact becomes relevant.
Correcting the wave fields with ERS wave heights
Significant
wave height is obtained from the radar altimeter, derived using the wave
height-dependency of the rate at which the energy from the radar pulse
is echoed back to the satellite. ECMWF assimilates altimeter data into
the WAM wave model used to produce wave forecasts. Additonally, scatterometer
winds are now used in the analysis of surface winds which are used to force
the wave model. Figure 7, below, shows the differences between the wave
heights output from the WAM model derived using simulated wind fields (no
scatterometer data used), and the measured significant wave height from
the ERS-1 altimeter for July 1993, illustrating the magnitude of the corrections
needed. The new wave field produced with assimilation of altimeter data
was validated with wave buoy data, and there was a reduction in standard
deviation of 3% in the Western Atlantic, increasing to 15% in the Eastern
Pacific where there are fewer in situ observations.
[Figure 7. The magnitude of the difference between wave model output
using simulated wind measurements only and ERS measured wave heights.
Courtesy: European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts]
The difference the wave spectrum makes
Heights of waves alone are often insufficient to describe (and thus
correct) the entire wave spectrum in the model. In contrast, the ERS SAR
Wave Mode yields two-dimensional wave spectra (period and direction) at
a resolution comparable to that of the wave model, every 200km along the
satellite track. This information is particularly useful for local models
used during dedicated support campaigns, due to the better characterisation
of swell period.
Ensuring the quality of the wave data
Satellite
data must be carefully cross-calibrated against in situ wave-buoy and weather
station measurements. For example, a comparison of ERS-2 altimeter measurements
with buoy data for the period June 1995 to August 1996 is shown below.
ERS-2 underpredicts wave heights as observed by buoys by about 8% (as compared
with 15% for ERS-1, it's predecessor), which is then corrected for before
assimilation.
[Figure 8. Calibration of ERS-2 wave heights with in situ measurements.
Courtesy: European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts]
The UK Meteorological Office
The UK Meteorological Office (UKMO) has been providing tailored products
incorporating ERS data to a number of customers, predominantly shipping
operators and offshore oil production companies, since 1992. Scatterometer,
radar altimeter and SAR wave mode data are incorporated into the general
forecast products such as the five-day ocean weather forecast. These are
assimilated into numerical models which provide initial analysis fields
of wind and wave data, upon which forecasts are based.
In addition to the general marine forecast products, specific support
is available from the UKMO during particular projects. On average, around
1000 ship routing contracts are carried out annually with support provided
to between thirty and forty customers at any one time. The model predictions
are analysed by experienced master mariners and optimal routes are recommended
to the ships’ masters. For the oil industry, the model outputs are extrapolated
to the shallow waters around the UK to provide operational support in planning
and execution of tasks such as drilling and lifting operations. A third
customer area is the coastal protection and engineering industry, where
users are supplied with data extrapolated from the nearest grid point to
the location of interest via a transform incorporating the local coastal
bathymetry. Companies such as Delft Hydraulics and HR Wallingford buy such
products from the UKMO in order to provide sea-defence design services
to local authorities.
The Neptune service from Meteo-France
 
[Figure 9 (left). Wind forecast and Figure 10(right). Swell wave
forecast for the North Eastern Atlantic. Courtesy Meteo-France]
Meteo-France, the French National Weather service, has introduced the
Neptune service, which is based upon the numerical wave forecasts from
both Meteo-France and from the ECMWF, both of which incorporate ERS altimeter
and scatterometer data. The Meteo-France forecast is generated using their
model of the atmosphere, ARPEGE, which ingests data from ships, buoys and
infrared satellite data. ERS scatterometer data is used to provide corrections
to the wind field (see previous page for more details).
The data are transmitted via the Inmarsat C satellite to an onboard
desktop computer equipped with the appropriate interpretation software.
The information can be viewed either in the form of a chart or in a user-defined
format if the extraction of particular information, such as waves exceeding
a particular height, is required. Information is included on both the current
situation, and the forecast for the following days. Depending on the particular
requirements of the customer, Neptune provides the following data:
- Pressure, wind (speed and direction - figure 9) and swell (height,
direction (figure 10) and period). Forecasts are provided with a spatial
resolution of 0.5° longitude for a five-day period.
- A chart of fronts and isobars containing both an analysis of the current
situation and a forecast for the following three-day period.
- Sea surface temperature analysis.
This service allows mariners to receive forecasts on a specific sea
area, for example for delicate offshore operations (test drilling, pipeline
deployment), or for fishing vessels. Another service allows shipping operators
or yacht races to receive forecasts on a ‘point-to-point’ basis in near
real-time over the course of a voyage. This service is costed according
to the number of forecasts required.
ARGOSS-forecasts for offshore operations

[Figure 11. Jacket installation. Courtesy Heeremac Engineering
Services and ARGOSS]
Offshore heavy lifting operations, such as the positioning of rig structures,
can be carried out only if the wave heights remain at a reasonably low
amplitude for the duration of the operation and the period of the swell
is sufficiently different from the natural periods of oscillation of the
vessels involved. A project was carried out by Delft Hydraulics, supported
by the Netherlands Remote Sensing Board, to provide sea state forecasts
to Heeremac Engineering Services, an offshore engineering company, during
a number of operations including heavy lifting and exploratory drilling.
The figure shows one such operation - the installation of a jacket (support
structure for an oil rig).
During such operations, decisions need to be made shortly before or
during the task about suspension of work based on expected risk of damage
or loss of life. In particular, swell (waves coming from a distant storm
field) can cause strong motions of vessels if the local wind speed is low.
These decisions must be based upon accurate short- and medium-term wave
forecasts which include directional wave spectra at the site of the operation,
to be used to forecast vessel motion, for example crane tip movement during
lifting operations. The temporal resolution for the short-term (up to every
three hours) and the quality of the forecast must be sufficient to allow
this application.

[Figure 12. The effect of the assimilation of ERS altimeter
data in wave prediction. Courtesy ARGOSS]
ERS-1 radar altimeter and scatterometer products were used to correct
‘first-guess’ wave and wind fields (from the UKMO) of the numerical sea-state
forecasting model (PHIDIAS) covering the North Sea and the NE Atlantic
Ocean. An improved forecast was generated, which was validated using Waverider
buoy and directional wave buoy measurements. It was found that assimilation
of ERS significant wave height data was particularly useful in the presence
of swell, as in the case of the trial carried out in August, see figure
12 above.
The forecast contained information on significant wave height, period,
wave length and direction, as well as wind direction and strength. In addition,
data on approaching swells were provided. These data were then used to
compute parameters such as crane tip motions for lifting operations, to
prevent high tension variations within the lifting equipment and dangerous
impact forces between the lifted objects and other vessels. In one particular
case, the improved forecast predicted a peak in the crane tip motions which
was entirely missed by the ‘first guess’ fields.
In August 1995, a new private organisation, ARGOSS (Advisory and Research
Group on Geo-Observation Systems and Services) was launched linking data
suppliers, the space industry, research organisations and end-users. Among
others, the activity of ARGOSS covers the further development of the wave
forecasting system to provide fully operational systems and services. ARGOSS
is providing contract research services on the use of satellite observations
to improve wave forecasts. Within a partnership with around twenty other
organizations ARGOSS is working on the development of an onboard decision
support system to reduce risks of damage to vessels and tows. ARGOSS is
contributing to a module for onboard updating of sea state analysis and
forecast using both onboard measurements and satellite observations.
Current and future developments in marine forecasting
The efficiency of the assimilation of these data is improving - the
European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasting (ECMWF), who produce
wave forecasts based on the assimilation of ERS data using the WAM model,
have improved the output of their global model from 1.5° to 0.5°
, due to technical advances within the system. This new resolution extends
the wave forecasts from the open ocean to the coastal regions without the
limitations of regional models.
Currently, ERS-2 satellite data is the only method of getting wide area
wave information in near real time. In addition to the scatterometer on
ERS-2, near real time satellite wind information will soon be available
from the scatterometer (NSCAT) on the Japanese ADEOS platform. Following
on from the ERS series, the next generation of Earth Observing satellite
from ESA, ENVISAT, will be launched in 1999, and will have the capability
to measure wave height, period and direction using advanced versions of
the ERS SAR and radar altimeter sensors. The scatterometer measurements
currently made by ERS-2 will be continued by the ASCAT instrument which
will be flown on the EUMETSAT platform METOP, due for launch in 2001.
Cost versus benefit for the marine industries
The scale and immediacy of the risks facing industries which depend
on the sea creates an enormous potential for application of both meteorological
and sea-state forecasts. However, as with all private-sector industry,
these customers are extremely cost and service sensitive, and can only
invest in the necessary infrastructure if the information provided fulfills
the user’s requirement in terms of accuracy, reliability, timeliness and
cost.

[Figure 12. Crane barge (right) hoists drilling and accomodation
faciities onto a jacket. Courtesy. UK Offshore Operators Association]
The areas where wave forecasts are most useful are in the avoidance
of extreme waveheights and certain dangerous wave periods in marine operations,
such as the one shown in figure 12. This information is essential in order
to plan operations as safely and efficiently as possible and to ensure
objective decisions are made during weather sensitive operations, though
benefits such as these are long-term and hard to quantify, as dangerous
conditions do not occur during every operation. These benefits are therefore
often not fully accounted for in cost-benefit analyses of these services,
necessary in order to invest in the information. The further adoption of
the use of wave forecasting services in general will therefore be induced
by continuing illustration of the tangible benefits of such information
in conjunction with initiatives in cost minimisation to enable the economical
justification of the investment.
Where satellite data really comes into its own as a source of information
is in frontier regions for offshore operations such as the North Western
Approaches or South East Asia, or for fishing operations in the Southern
Ocean. In areas where there are insufficient or sub-optimal in situ measurements
being made, ERS-2 data is essential to produce optimum forecasts of winds
and waves.
Contacts
For further information on the services and products covered here, contact:
Jack S. Hopkins
The Meteorological Office
London Road
Bracknell
Berkshire
RG12 2SZ (UK)
Tel.: +44 1344 856684
Fax.: +44 1344 854906
J. Poitevin
Meteo-France
42, avenue Gustave Coriolis
31057 Toulouse Cedex (France)
Tel: +33 5 61 07 80 80
Fax: +33 5 61 07 80 09
H. Wensink
ARGOSS
P.O. Box 61
8325 ZH Vollenhove (The Netherlands)
Tel: +31 527 242299
Fax: +31 527 242016
P. Janssen
European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts
Shinfield Park
Reading
Berkshire RG2 9AX (UK)
Tel.: +44 118 9499116
Fax.: +44 118 9868450
Acknowledgments
The material illustrated here was provided by the following organisations:
Shell UK Exploration & Production, European Centre for Medium-Range
Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Meteo-France, ARGOSS,
Heeremac Engineering Services, UK Offshore Operators Association
ESA gratefully acknowledge all contributions
Keywords: ESA European
Space Agency - Agence spatiale europeenne,
observation de la terre, earth observation,
satellite remote sensing,
teledetection, geophysique, altimetrie, radar,
chimique atmospherique, geophysics, altimetry, radar,
atmospheric chemistry
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